Socca du Cours

In the heart of the cours Selaya market, this no-frills stand draws crowds every morning for its hot-from-the-oven socca (chickpea-flour pancake; brought in by bicycle) and assorted Niçois snacks: stuffed cabbage, tourte de blette (chard tart with raisins, pine nuts and parmesan), octopus salad and pissaladière – onion tart made the old-fashioned way with pissala (anchovy paste, from Niçard dialect for 'salted fish').