For a memorable Basque meal, stop at the Michelin-starred Ithurria, established by the Isabal family in an old pilgrims’ hostel and now run by Maurice Isabal’s two sons (one the sommelier, the other the chef). To make a night of it, Ithurria’s rainbow-hued rooms (doubles from €135) and dreamy swimming pool complement the food perfectly.
If the restaurant is too extravagant for you, there's a bistro where you can get a sense of what you're missing (mains €11 to €15; open for lunch Monday to Saturday, closed Wednesday and Thursday in winter).