Ô des Lys

A talented husband–wife team shakes the pans at this sweet, intimate bistro in the heart of historic Troyes. Classic French home cooking with a pinch of love is brought to tightly packed tables – with starters like escargots with parsnip cream preluding mains like pollack fillet in a herb crust with Champagne sauce and desserts like tarte tatin (upside-down caramelised apple pie).