Sidling up to Épernay’s theatre, Le Théâtre raises a curtain on a delightfully old-school brasserie with splashes of high-ceilinged art-nouveau charm. The Belgian chef, Lieven Vercouteren, prides himself on using superb seasonal produce in menus that might begin, say, with pheasant terrine with juniper berries and move on to mains such as tender leg of lamb with seasonal vegetables.
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