Run by a reindeer-owning family who taught at the local school, Porotila Toini Sanila is a great place to learn about the Skolt way of life. A series of rooms across a few central buildings offer simple, attractive comfort with shared bathrooms. Self-contained cottages are also available.
The cafe does home baking and delicious reindeer and fish meals (three courses including soup and dessert €18 to €29); the sauna is always on. The guesthouse is 1km off the main road, halfway between Sevettijärvi and the Norwegian border; the bus will drop you at the turn-off.