Some of Finland's most breathtaking scenery is within the 712-sq-km Kevo Strict Nature Reserve along the splendid 40km gorge of the Kevojoki (off-limits from April to mid-June). The main trail is 63km long (four days one way) and runs through the canyon, from the Sulaoja parking area 11km east of Karigasniemi on the road westbound from Kaamanen, to Kenesjärvi, on the Kaamanen–Utsjoki road. Be aware that hikers cannot hunt, fish or collect plants or berries, and must stay on marked trails.
The trek is rough with several fords – ask about water levels before heading off. The Guivi trail separates from the main trail and loops through fell scenery before rejoining the main trail further along: it’s a 77km journey. You can also walk a return trip from Sulaoja. Use the 1:100,000 Utsjoki Kevo outdoor map.
Bring a tent if you plan to hike the canyon, as there's only one wilderness hut on the main route (there are another two on the Guivi leg). Camping is permitted within the reserve at 20 designated sites.
Ruktajärvi wilderness hut is at the gorge route's southern end near where the Guivi trail branches off, and Njávgoaivi and Kuivi are on the Guivi loop. There’s also a simple turf hut between these two.
There are cabins on the main road 500m south of the eastern trailhead.
Catch the Karigasniemi-bound bus from Inari (€18.70, 1¼ hours, two daily) and ask the driver to drop you off at the clearly marked Sulaoja trailhead. From Kenesjärvi, buses run to Inari (€23.50, 1¾ hours, one daily) or Utsjoki/Nuorgam (€6.80, 45 minutes, two daily).