In this affable, elegant eatery, the furniture is more chic than shabby and the food is pure West Country élan. Dorset goodies might include Dorset crab soup with saffron aioli, or roast lamb made fragrant with wild garlic. For a great-value feed, plump for the cracking menu du jour (three courses £22).
Aperitifs include a glass of Sherborne Estate wine (£6).