Nenita's has quietly become one of Cuba's top private homestays. While its out-of-center location might deter some, the eight rooms are above par and, when augmented by the amazing restaurant, pool and roof terrace, give you a luxurious launchpad from which to explore. Nenita's battered fish has even featured in recipe books.
Finding the place can be tricky, however – it's behind the policlinico (hospital).