The Ricla (named for a Spanish count) is a seven-room family-run hotel with a to-die-for location at the corner of Plaza Vieja. Rooms are gleaming white, with original floor tiles, minibars, flat-screen TVs and plenty of space, and there's a spectacular roof terrace where breakfast is served.
Sure, there's a bit of street noise, but that's the price you pay for being in the thick of the action.