The music never stops on Calle Heredia, Santiago's most sensuous street and also one of its oldest. Melodies waft from the paint-peeled Casa de Cultura Josué País García, where ballroom-dancing pensioners mix with svelte teen rap artists. One door up is Cuba's original Casa de la Trova, a beautiful balconied townhouse redolent of New Orleans' French Quarter. This block is also home to several galleries and shops selling artesanías (handicrafts).