Hóng Dòu Yuán

This old-school Chinese eatery, with a duck-your-head stairway, is a real locals hang-out on cosmopolitan Wenlin Jie. The food is excellent and will draw you back, despite the long dinnertime lines. Try regional specialities such as the táozá rǔbǐng (fried goat’s cheese and Yunnan ham) and liáng bái ròu (peppery, tangy beef). There's a picture menu.