This charmingly authentic Bai restaurant is composed of three grey-brick courtyards each containing small seating nooks where you can feast on traditional local cuisine. The English menu features some erratic translations (‘garlic loofah tip’, anyone?), but the ‘braised chicken’ or ‘wild mushroom’ dishes are both fine starting points, as are the small bottles of aged house-made plum liquor.
It’s tucked off Renmin Lu opposite the vegetable market.