There's no shortage of decent Hunan restaurants in Shanghai, but you won't find much better than this one. Wooden benches and an exposed-brick effect make for a rough-and-ready atmosphere, but there's nothing casual about the food: a feast of unforgettably smoky, spicy flavours.
Many of the dishes are prepared in the typical 'dry pot' style (干锅; gān guō) and are served in an iron pot placed over a burner at the table. Standout dishes include the grilled yellow-croaker fish and the smoked tofu with bacon and spicy potato.