Chén Tiānjì

In a narrow alley off Baohua Lu, this hugely popular hole-in-the-wall serves three dishes – crunchy blanched fish skin (鱼皮, yúpí) tossed with peanuts and parsley, sampan congee (艇仔粥, tǐngzǎi zhōu) and rice-flour rolls (肠粉, chángfěn).