Affording breathtaking views of Vietnam’s pancake-flat Mekong Delta, the cliff-ringed summit of Phnom Bayong (313m) is graced by a 7th-century Chenla temple built to celebrate a victory over Funan. The linga (phallic symbol) originally in the inner chamber is now in Paris’ Musée Guimet, but a number of flora- and fauna-themed bas-relief panels can still be seen, for example on the lintels of the three false doorways, and carved into the brickwork.
Phnom Bayong is about 3km west of the northern edge of Kirivong (Phumi Tonleab); the turn-off on NH2 is marked by a painted panel depicting the temple, 39km south of Takeo. From the turn-off, drive 2km along a sealed road, then turn left on a dirt road and proceed uphill for another kilometre or so to the parking area.
From the parking area, a twisting concrete single track leads straight up to the base of the temple. You can either walk this bit (about 30 minutes) or navigate it by motorbike (10 minutes) – a real thrill whether you are self-driving or on the back of a moto (about US$5 round trip from Kirivong). From the base of the temple, it's a 10-minute grunt straight up a crumbling, ancient staircase to the temple (bring plenty of water).
To get to Kirivong from Takeo, take a share taxi (US$3.50), a chartered taxi (US$20) or a moto (one-way/round trip US$10/15).