Coconut Beach's original guesthouse sprawls up a hillside overlooking cerulean water and powdery white sand. The owners go above and beyond for guests and have a huge library of books and games. The small semiprivate rooms have shared bathrooms, as do the basic tents atop platforms down by the ocean, or pay up for the comfortable en-suite bungalows.
Camping with your own tent is free. The resort is owned by a Khmer family who lived on Koh Rong decades before it was a glint in a thirsty backpacker's eye. They build nightly bonfires, provide complimentary room service and guide trips to see glowing plankton at all hours.