The ultimate weekend in Sintra, Portugal's fairytale town

I'm from Lisbon, less than an hour away from Sintra, so it's one of my top destinations for a day trip. Again and again, I find myself driving along the mountain's winding roads, strolling through the village towards places selling delicious travesseiros (Sintra's signature almond and egg flaky pastries), or just peeking into the manor houses, building in my head tales that would make a book.

In this itinerary, I'm going to share my favorite places in Sintra with you. There are some must-sees and also some less well-known ones that are worth discovering.

• When to arrive: If you can, avoid July and August and try to go between March and May or September and October, when the weather is milder, and you can enjoy a slightly calmer visit. Also, it's best to arrive on a Thursday so you can avoid the bulk of the crowds, the worst of which are on a Sunday.

• How to get from the airport: From Humberto Delgado Airport, take the red and green metro lines to Rossio Station and catch the CP (Comboios de Portugal) urban train to Sintra. The 40-minute trip costs €2.40 (US$2.52). Another option is to go by Uber or Bolt, but it will be more expensive (between €25 and €40/US$26–42).

• Getting around town: Be prepared to walk. As many of Sintra's attractions are on higher grounds, you'll need to navigate hilly, steep paths and uneven cobblestone streets in the village center. Many routes within the historic center have traffic restrictions, so a car is not a good option. However, tourist buses (ScottURB 434 and 435) will take you to the main monuments. Buy a day pass to save money.

• Where to stay: Sure, you can stay in Lisbon and make it a day trip, but it's so much better to base yourself in the historic center of Sintra, as it offers a deeper connection to the place and brings you closer to the main attractions. There is a wide variety of accommodations here. For luxury, choose the Valverde Sintra Palácio de Seteais, a palace dating form 1787 that served as a party venue for the European aristocracy. Chalet Saudade is a 19th-century manor house turned guesthouse, and Moon Hill is a hostel, just 300m (984ft) from the train station. 

• What to pack: We often say that Sintra has a microclimate, as even in summer, it can be rainy and humid. So two must-have items in your suitcase are a waterproof jacket and good walking shoes.

Thursday

Morning: Start your day at Café Saudade, just a few meters from Sintra train station. This small cafe, serving homemade chocolate cake that is a real treat, is full of soul, with antique furniture and vintage decorations. From there, head to the historic center, visit craft stores like Bazar Sintra, and try the famous travesseiros at the 1862 pastry shop Casa Piriquita. This light puffed pastry filled with delicious almond-and-egg cream results from a secret recipe that has been passed down through six generations.

How to spend the day: The Palácio Nacional de Sintra is right in the historic center and one of Portugal's oldest palaces. Used by royalty during the Middle Ages, it's worth going through its extravagantly decorated rooms. There are intricate ceilings, colorful tiles with geometric and floral designs, and beautiful tapestries that complement the marble columns, while large windows frame the green landscape outside. 

Walk 10 minutes to Tascantiga for a lunch of petiscos (seafood). The outdoor terrace is my favorite spot if the weather is nice, and the friendly staff makes the experience all the more enjoyable. Chef Vitor Paes started this project in 2016 by taking traditional Portuguese recipes and giving them his own twist. The menu changes depending on the season, but some classics include octopus à lagareiro (baked octopus with potatoes), codfish cakes and pork cheeks.

Sintra is full of myths and legends, like the one about the Tomb of the Two Brothers, which tells the story of two siblings who fell in love with the same maiden and ended up killing each other. Legend has it that they were buried together, but their souls still roam Sintra. Learn more about them and other legends at Sintra Mitos e Lendas, just a five-minute stroll from Tascantiga. Located in the tourism office, this museum is a place for the whole family to enjoy with touchscreens, video mapping, smell and wind mechanisms, and even holograms to bring the stories to life. On floor -1, you'll find a tunnel that simulates entering an initiation well, underground architecture that resembles a well but was used for ceremonies rather than storing water, which sets the tone for our next stop on this itinerary: Quinta da Regaleira — my favorite place in all of Sintra!

From Sintra Mitos e Lendas, it's a 600m (1969ft) climb to Quinta da Regaleira, but you'll be rewarded with elaborate gardens where statues and stone towers frame the 1800s manor house, and the initiation well said to be related to Masonic rituals.

Dinner: Return to the area near the train station to end the evening at Incomum by Luís Santos. This Portuguese chef made his career in Switzerland and launched his personal project in the center of Sintra. The dish I love the most is the scallops with passion fruit risotto, but if you want the whole experience, opt for the tasting menu. Be sure to book ahead.

Friday

Morning: Stop by Rua das Padarias for a good cup of coffee and pastel de nata (custard tart) at Vila Velha to collect your strength for the morning's uphill journey. Put on hiking shoes and set off for Castelo dos Mouros, a fortress built in the 10th century at the top of the mountain, with a 360-degree view that stretches to the ocean and takes in Sintra’s historic center and nearby towns. A walking trail (about 45 minutes) goes from the tiled church of Igreja de Santa Maria, 15 minutes from the historic center, to the castle. This beautiful route winds through the forest with some steep sections. There are some viewpoints with benches to rest and enjoy Sintra’s natural surroundings. 

How to spend the day: Although Palácio da Pena – the most famous monument in Sintra – is next door to Castelo dos Mouros, I suggest you return to town to rest for a while and enjoy lunch at Villa 6, where you must try the Iberian pork sandwich in bolo do caco (sweet potato bread). Then take the 434 bus (Scotturb) from the train station to Palácio da Pena to tour its wacky architecture, including onion domes, Moorish keyhole gates and crenellated towers in pinks and lemons. The later you visit, the less crowded it tends to be. But remember that the last entrance is at 6pm, and you'll need at least two hours to see everything.

After the palace, if you still have time, you can walk back to the village through the Parque da Pena and stop by the beautiful Chalet da Condessa d’Elba.

Dinner: Romaria de Baco is my suggestion for dinner. It's a relaxed restaurant located between the tourism office and the Igreja de São Martinho where you can enjoy traditional Portuguese dishes, such as bacalhau à brás (salted cod and fried potatoes). Book a table before you go.

After dark: If you still have the strength to go for a drink, Fonte da Pipa is much-loved Sintra bar. Or try Casa do Fauno, a medieval pub.

Saturday

Morning: On the weekend, Sintra gets crowded, so I suggest leaving the historic center and heading for the coast. But not without coffee, accompanied by a queijada de Sintra (crisp pastry shells filled with a marzipan-like mixture of cheese, sugar, flour and cinnamon) at Queijadas da Sapa. Founded in 1756, it is one of the oldest producers of queijadas in Sintra, and the aroma of cinnamon will win you over as soon as you walk through the door.

How to spend the day: It takes about 16 minutes on the 435 bus (Scotturb) to get from the train station to Palácio de Monserrate, one of the most beautiful properties in Sintra. Everything at Monserrate was thought out in detail, from the colorful stained-glass windows to the carved doors and ceilings to the beautiful gardens.

Then hop on the 1253 bus (Carris Metropolitana) for a 30-minute ride to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of the European mainland. It has one of the oldest lighthouses in Portugal and a phenomenal view over the massive cliffs that mark Sintra's coastline with the waves of the Atlantic crashing against them. The air is often cooler here, so go prepared.

Take a taxi or Uber to Praia Grande for lunch at Bar do Fundo for fresh, locally sourced seafood. Grab a seat on the balcony to watch surfers in action.

The last stop is Azenhas do Mar – another taxi or Uber ride away – a small town where the white houses stretch down the hillside by the sea. It is one of Sintra's prettiest, and most-photographed, locations and the perfect place to watch the sunset.

Dinner: Before returning to Sintra or Lisbon, stay for a seafood dinner at the Azenhas do Mar restaurant, located right next to the sea. The fish pasta or the cataplana (fish stew) are among my favorites and are perfect for sharing. Book a table or risk being left at the door.