How to spend the perfect romantic weekend in Mexico City

Mexico City has a unique combination of old-world and new-world charm – top museums, sidewalk cafes, music in the streets and an eternally pleasant climate that makes walking its streets a year-round delight. After living here for 14 years, I still love the city as much as the day I arrived. 

For visiting couples looking to relax and reconnect I always suggest scheduling in plenty of time for people-watching, naps and leisurely meals. True romance sometimes means simply spending time together, so whatever you do you will likely find it refreshing. Nevertheless, if you want a few suggestions for a romantic weekend in CDMX, here's what you need to know.

• When to arrive: To avoid long traffic delays to and from the airport I suggest that you arrive after 10am and before 6pm on a Thursday to maximize three full days in the city. 

• How to get from the airport: Uber is probably the most convenient option from the airport, but also feel safe taking a local taxi that you can arrange at one of the many airport taxi stands. The local metro is also an option if you want to travel cheap, but it can be tricky with luggage. 

• Getting around town: Ubers are easiest for visitors that don’t speak Spanish, but if you want to go deluxe, a private driver can be hired for a few hundred dollars for the weekend. For something a little more on-the-ground get a bike share account for the weekend or rent a bicycle built for two with Poray.

• Where to stay: I always recommend planning your hotel based on your other activities so you can walk as much as possible and avoid getting stuck in traffic. For lovers who want boutique artistic vibes, La Valise is a dream. Be sure to book one of the suites with a bed that rolls out onto the terrace for sleeping under the stars. If you are looking to have a couple's massage, a bigger hotel such as Sofitel or Ritz-Carlton will offer a full spa and an upscale experience. For a more affordable option, the Red Tree House has an incredible location right off Amsterdam in Condesa and guests rave about the breakfasts. Be forewarned that the crowd there tends to be a little bit older. An Airbnb in a great neighborhood like Roma or Condesa can also be a great way to have privacy and save money. 

• What to pack: Mexico City is not the place for casual beachwear, sundresses and sandals. Pack smart city attire – a few casual outfits for day trips or a taco crawl, and a few nicer outfits for a fancy dinner. Bring a hat and sunscreen if you are heading out the pyramids or the southern canals.

Thursday

Dinner: Ease into your vacation with a dinner prepared by a private chef at home or in your hotel. La Valise will bring you in-room dinner from the fabulous Sartoria restaurant around the corner or, if you have your own place, chefs like Victor Dorantes (+52 55 4131 9330) are happy to create a personalized menu for you and your beloved

Friday

Morning: Tuck yourself into a corner at Niddo and dig into some shakshuka eggs or huevos rancheros with salty fresh cheese, avocado and jalapeno. After breakfast, walk through leafy Chapultepec Park, entering near the Estela de Luz and exiting on Av Quebradora.

How to spend the day: Cross Av Constituyentes and you will be in San Miguel Chapultepec, one of the most charming residential neighborhoods in the city as well home to many of its most lauded art galleries. You can make a circuit and see Kurimanzutto, the Galeria de Arte Mexicano and RGR+ART as well as stop by Casa Luis Barragan and Casa Gilardi (both require advance reservations) built by luminary Mexican architect Luis Barragan. Your last stop on the art circuit will require a cab ride. Head to Lago Algo, a contemporary gallery as well as farm-to-table restaurant with gorgeous views of the main lake in Chapultepec Park Section 2. Have lunch here and bask in the sunlight on the outside patio if you can. 

Dinner: For something casual and intimate, head to Bar Sin Cruda, run by a couple of French transplants that serve delectable small plates, well-executed cocktails and natural wine. If your aim is to impress, make a reservation at the Caviar Bar inside the Alexander hotel for the city’s most expensive caviar and mind-blowing drinks with fabulous views of the city.

After dark: For moody romantic vibes I like a good, dark jazz club where you can slide into a booth with your better half and allow yourself to be carried away by the sultry strains of piano and trumpet. Zinco Jazz Club is a landmark in the Centro Historico that fits the bill, down inside a basement bar. Parker & Lenox also has great shows in a speakeasy-style back room with excellent cocktails to mellow out at the end of the night.

Saturday

Morning: While rising early is not always my idea of a relaxing vacation, a sunrise balloon ride over the pyramids of Teotihuacán outside of Mexico City is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Feel the full extent of the ancient Teotihuacán complex with coffee, or maybe champagne if you're celebrating something special. It’s worth every penny. 

How to spend the day: On the way back in from the pyramids stop at Nicos for a slow, deliberate Mexican lunch. Get a couple's massage and a dip in the pool at Andaz or Ritz-Carlton. Alternatively, if you want a really special experience (but one that will take up most of a day) arrange a temazcal for two. This is a kind of ancient Maya sweat lodge that I have always found both bonding and rejuvenating. 

You will have gotten up early, so an afternoon nap isn’t a bad idea, but if you aren’t tired I recommend a stroll through the eastern part of Colonia Juarez. Enjoy the grandiose 19th-century architecture and stop for a coffee or cocktail at El Minutito. You can enjoy the 1920s vibes inside or cozy up in the VW van that has been converted into an outdoor seating area.

Dinner: Go for one of Mexico City’s fine-dining bests. My two favorites are Máximo for contemporary Mexican or Rosetta for a blend of Italian and Mexican. If you find yourselves planning at the last minute, Gamal is also excellent and might be easier to reserve. Dimly-lit with punched tin lamps and draping tapestries on the ceiling, this sexy Middle Eastern cocktail bar serves small, savory plates and unusual handcrafted cocktails.

After dark: End the night swaying your hips to some sexy salsa and sweating on the dance floor of Mama Rumba, a dancing institution in Colonia Roma. If you aren’t sure your skills are up to snuff, come early for a collective lesson on the upstairs floor of the bar. Salon San Luis is more divey and local if that’s more of the vibe you’re looking for.

Sunday

Morning: Head south from the city to El Cardenal in San Angel. This Mexican breakfast spot in a grandiose old mansion in one of the city’s upper crust neighborhoods is famous for its conchas y nata (sweetbread and clotted cream) and Mexican hot chocolate frothed tableside. The rest of the menu is equally tasty and has regional delicacies from across the country. Go early as the waitlist on Sundays can get long once the families start showing up. 

How to spend the day: After breakfast, hop in an Uber and head down to Embarcadero Cuemanco for a float in Mexico City’s ancient canals. There are many embarkation docks throughout the waterways that you can leave from, but I especially like Cuemanco because it’s more rural and relaxing, allowing you to experience the agricultural side of the canals and get a peek into Mexico City’s past.

On the way back into town stop at Los Danzantes restaurant for some great Oaxacan food on the outside patio that faces Coyoacan’s main plaza. Sunday is a time when lots of families will be out and about enjoying the neighborhood and if you are lucky maybe a musical trio will come by to serenade you.