Having lived in and out of Ho Chi Minh City for the last 10 years, I’ve had a chance to look at this city through the eyes of a local and sometimes a visitor. In Vietnamese, we refer to this city as Sai Gon hoa le, literally translated into "Saigon flowers and tears".
While the city's glamorous side allows easy travel and top-notch entertainment, it can take time to feel deeply connected to its unfiltered side, which is equally beautiful to the core. So, it's important to set reasonable expectations, depending on the amount of time you spend in the city, knowing that once you do it right, Saigon will never fail to impress you. Here are some essentials to help you get the most out of your visit to this lively metropolis.
1. Plan your trip around the lunar calendar
Several Vietnamese festivals and holidays, including cultural, religious, and social events, are based on the lunar calendar. As the leading economic city of the south, Ho Chi Minh City is the venue for most of these significant celebrations. By checking the lunar calendar against a Gregorian one, you can better plan for potential disruptions – such as crowded transport hubs and possible closures of businesses during the Tet holiday – and special opportunities, like witnessing unique religious ceremonies that take place once a year at certain pagodas.
2. There's no need to carry cash
Ho Chi Minh City is very close to becoming a cashless destination with the widespread use of online payment methods. Almost any walk-in business, from a luxury restaurant to a street vendor, accepts local bank transfers. Even if you don't have a local bank account, you can still get around the city without unnecessary haggling by installing one of the ride-hailing apps, like Be or Grab, and linking the account to your foreign credit card. In addition to transport, these apps are also integrated with multiple services, such as food delivery and accommodation booking, which will save the hassle of exchanging money and carrying cash around.
3. Staying connected is easy
There are over 20,000 free wi-fi hot spots across Ho Chi Minh City, and every business, regardless of scale and class, offers a free internet connection. If you need online access when you're out, just open the wi-fi networks list on your phone, walk in to the nearest provider and ask for the wi-fi password (in restaurants and cafes, the wi-fi info is often posted on a sign somewhere). The locals are super helpful, too; ask a random (preferably young) person and they will likely be willing to share their hot spot with you so you can make a quick payment or check your onwards route.
4. Don't be surprised to have people in your personal space
The Saigonese have a very relaxed sense of boundaries and personal space, partly due to the emphasis on collectivism and communal interdependence. Don’t be offended if you are pointed at or even laughed at by the local aunties and uncles; it is most likely that they are excited to see a foreigner and are showering your “unique” look with compliments. For them, you might even be considered beautiful. You also may be tapped on the shoulder and patted on the back as a typical greeting (or your toddler might be fawned over or even picked up). Don’t take it personally, and feel free to return the gesture, knowing that these are typical local practices.
5. Wear what you want except in temples and pagodas
Ho Chi Minh City is an open and non-judgmental runway for everyone when it comes to fashion. Dress to impress or to be comfortable knowing that no one is frowning upon you (who are we to talk when most local females grew up wearing floral-printed pajamas everywhere?!). The only exception is for temples and pagodas. When visiting places of worship, modesty is key: don't wear anything scant or tight fitting. Pack a pair of long pants and a cardigan, and you are ready to go.
6. HCMC is a noisy place
The city’s constant noise of traffic, the volume of conversations (and people talking on their phones with the speaker on), and home-grown singers on karaoke machines can be challenging when first arriving in Ho Chi Minh City. Consider going upscale with your accommodation choices, as the further from budget options, the quieter in general (or at least, you’re entitled to make a complaint in case of loud noise). Choose private transportation over public to avoid chattering groups and conversations at high volume. Also, carry ear plugs with you to help with excessive noise. However, unless you’re very sensitive to sound, try to immerse yourself in the city’s rhythm and embrace it as part of the experience.
7. Dining etiquette is extremely casual
The relaxed and easy-going attitude of the Saigonese shines through the "go with the flow" mentality with a strong focus on enjoying life’s pleasure, especially when it comes to food. Should I slurp up or bite off noodles? Can I use forks for local dishes if I’m not familiar with using chopsticks? Can I throw trash on the floor if there’s no bin? Well, do whatever you need to to enjoy the dish to the fullest. We won’t judge.
8. Pair the right condiments for the best results
When eating at local restaurants, you’ll notice a variety of condiments on the table. These not only enhance the flavors of the dish but also play an important role in balancing the yin and yang, which is the essence of Vietnamese cuisine. Take pho as an example. In Saigon, people love adding things, such as basil leaves and bean sprouts, hoisin sauce, fresh chili peppers, and a squeeze of lime, to their bowls for acidity and depth of flavor. Chili oil and soy sauce, on the other hand, are used for dipping or adding directly to soupless dishes like stir-fried noodles and fried rice. The variety of table condiments could be overwhelming at first, but it is always a good idea to mix and match what’s offered to have an authentic taste of Saigon’s specialties.
9. Understand the unspoken traffic rules
Traffic in Ho Chi Minh City is not necessarily chaotic once you understand the local ground rules that keep it flowing. If you are a first-time visitor to the city, it's best not to jump on a motorcycle on your own. Opt for public transportation or take advantage of many ride-hailing apps. If you wish to blend in with the traffic on two wheels (a memorable experience in itself), consider bicycles for a more manageable pace with fewer distractions.
For pedestrians, your hands hold the power. Raise your hand above your head or wave it at the oncoming traffic to signal that you're crossing and, more importantly, walk at a steady pace and keep moving. The traffic will flow around you as long as you don’t make any sudden movements.
Last but not least, remember the 3-second rule for the traffic lights:
1. The traffic does not slow down during the 3-second yellow light.
2. People will continue driving during the first 3 seconds of the red light.
3. And they are likely to start moving 3 seconds before the light turns green.
10. The must-visit Independence Palace is not always open
The Independence Palace, also known as the Reunification Palace, is a significant landmark that should not be missed when visiting HCMC. As well as being a building with historic significance, it is also a fully functioning location for diplomatic meetings and other state functions. On these days, the buildings may be closed partially or entirely, so check on its website for any upcoming events before going to avoid disappointment.
11. HCMC's open attitudes extend to gay travelers
The openness of HCMC towards the LGBTIQ+ community can be seen through the blossoming scene of gay bars and queer hangout spots in the city. Same-sex marriage is neither against the law nor legally recognized, and people simply don’t seem to care much (as long as their own family isn’t affected). Public displays of affection are generally accepted as well; just be more reserved when around the elderly or in more socially conservative areas like Cholon.
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