Memories of Myanmar

Myanmar is one of the most underrated travel destinations in Southeast Asia. Ila Reddy tells us about her solo trip along the Golden Kite of Burma trail and why she counts Myanmar as one of her favorite destinations in Southeast Asia.

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I witnessed the first sunrise of 2020 in Bagan. I was perched on a small hillock overlooking the silhouettes of a hundred stupas in the distance and a pink-purple sky as the backdrop. Hot air balloons floated over the temple tops as the sun slowly made an appearance. Even though it was my first time in Bagan, this was a familiar sight; a scene featured in countless postcards, award-winning photographs, digital wallpapers, and travel magazines about Myanmar. My two-week solo trip began in Yangon, the capital city, earlier known as Rangoon. I had flown in from Kolkata and Yangon felt like an extension of it, with its old colonial buildings, narrow back lanes, and bustling markets. My hostel was located downtown, and I explored most tourist attractions like the Bogyoke Aung San Market and the Secretariat by foot. For places that were further away, such as the stunning Shwedagon Pagoda and the National Museum of Myanmar, there were Grab taxis.

While every country with a Buddhist population has beautiful Buddhist pagodas and temples, the Shwedagon Pagoda is unique. Glistering in gold under the morning sun, the place felt grand yet intimate. I spent a few hours exploring the complex but also people-watching. Monks, children, tourists, devotees — there were all kinds of visitors, and observing the action from a quiet spot next to one of the pillars was as satisfying as admiring the intricate carvings, paintings, and architecture of the pagoda. A visit to the National Museum, right after, was educational, giving me a glimpse of Myanmar’s history and culture. But my favorite activity in Yangon was taking a ride on the Yangon Circular Train. A four-hour route that starts and ends at the Yangon Central Railway Station connects the villages in the city’s outskirts with downtown. Riding the train is a great way to mingle with the locals, taste snacks sold by the hawkers jumping in and out of the train at each station, and enjoy the views of the countryside. Finally, the famous Shan noodles at one of the streetside restaurants in Yangon is not to be missed.

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A cultural immersion at Inle Lake

Inle Lake, located in the Nyaung Shwe township of Shan state, was not originally on my itinerary. I added it later on the insistence of a Burmese friend. An overnight drive from Yangon, I took a private bus and spent the first day exploring the countryside with a local guide. We hiked through cornfields, sunflower fields, and tobacco farms and ate a wonderful home-cooked meal in one of the villages. Post-lunch, we visited the Inle Horse Club, followed by a pit-stop at a coffee-estate with a spectacular view of the sunset, and later, wine-tasting at the Red Mountain Vineyard and Winery. This was certainly not what I had expected to do in Inle, having only heard about its floating villages, but who doesn’t like a pleasant surprise?

The following day, I explored the floating villages by boat. I visited community handicraft centers on stilts, where I learned how silver, silk and bamboo products, cheroot cigars, gold plates, Burmese paper umbrellas, and lotus weaves are made. Visitors can watch the artisans at work, pick up souvenirs and contribute to their livelihood. Inle lake also consists of floating farms, and in the early hours of the morning and later in the evening, fishermen can be seen catching fish in the traditional style — balancing on one leg at the tip of their long boat, bamboo stick in one hand and a fishing basket in the other.

Temple-hopping in Mandalay

Next up on the ‘Golden Kite of Burma’ trail was Mandalay. I spent four days visiting exquisite temples and monasteries in the ancient cities of Ava, Sagaing, and Amarapura, the 200-year-old U-Bein bridge (also the longest teakwood bridge in the world), and the Mahamuni Pagoda, where monks perform the idol-washing ceremony at 4 AM every morning. This is a lovely ritual to witness and is mostly attended by local devotees.

Mystical moments in Bagan

The final destination of my journey was Bagan. I spent four days exploring the numerous stupas and temples, including the spectacular Ananda temple. To get a deeper understanding of the Buddhist meditation practice, I also spent some time with Buddhist monks in a monastery, where I got to ask questions, observe their lifestyle, and meditate inside a cave. Everyday life outside the tourist circuit can be experienced through the bazaars, where the locals buy and sell fruits, vegetables, clothes, knick-knacks, and flowers. Needless to say, the Mohinga and Khau Suey in Bagan are exceptional. However, my favorite is the traditional tea-leaf salad, which can be found at any restaurant or roadside shack.

Circling back to the highlight of my trip, witnessing the first sunrise of 2020 was magical. Little did I know what the year had in store for us, but at that moment, I was mesmerized and grateful for all that life had to offer.
Hot air balloon rides in Bagan are expensive, although the view from the top may be well worth it if you can afford it. However, I believe the real thrill lies in renting an electric bike, driving up to one of the lesser-known stupas in the wee hours of the morning, and catching the sunrise from there, away from the crowds.

Tourism opened up in Myanmar as late as 2012, but the hostel/hotel network and road transport facilities established ever since ensured that my solo travel experience was seamless and comfortable. I am not sure when I will get to visit Myanmar again, but I will always count it as one of my favorite travel destinations for all that it has to offer: kind and authentic people, breathtaking landscapes, rich culture and traditions, extraordinary craftsmanship, and the most delicious and unique food.

Ila Reddy is a content writer at a technology startup. She combines her passion for travel, writing, and photography to tell compelling stories. You can follow her on Instagram / Twitter.

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