A first-time guide to the US Virgin Islands

The US Virgin Islands, has three primary islands, each with its own vibe. All three – St Thomas, St John, and St Croix – are distinctive destinations with lots to offer visitors. 

Shopaholics can get their fix here and it's duty-free for US citizens. Adventurous spirits can hike, free dive, SCUBA dive, kayak, parasail or zipline. History buffs will enjoy digging into a complicated and tangled legacy that has seen the islands governed under four nations’ flags, and this is reflected in the architecture, art and food. Plus, there’s plenty of local lore from freedom and forts to rum-making and pirates.

Even if you're just in search of some limin' time – a local phrase that translates as hanging out and having a good time – the USVI has plenty of places to find solace and peace or a lively mountain pub or beach bar where locals and visitors banter and revel.

What all of the islands have in common are some of the most beautiful sandy beaches in the world, lush tropical landscapes, divine dining and turquoise seas. And while sun, sand and sea are the trifecta of most destinations in the Caribbean, it is the cultural tapestry woven from centuries of African, European and Caribbean influences and a residential population from all over the world that makes a visit to the USVI unique.

When should I go to the US Virgin Islands? 

Endless sunshine means the US Virgin Islands are a warm tropical destination year-round. Expect temperatures in the mid-70s to mid-80s all year long.

But there are both subtle and major differences to note during different seasons. Wind is the most noticeable variation. From November to March, the trade winds are robust, bringing in cooler breezes and more consistent winds – the perfect time for sailing.

Tradewinds can be especially strong from late December through January, earning them the local nickname of “Christmas winds.” This tends to be the dry season in the Caribbean. Since the winds make the weather more pleasant and comfortable, the holiday season kicks off the four busiest months of the year.

The balmy breezes tend to be lighter in the summer months unless there's a tropical disturbance. June through November is hurricane season, which can bring extreme weather and disruption. Visitor numbers and cruise ships tend to be low because of this. However, this “off-season” means travelers with a tight budget can get more bang for their buck and avoid the crowds.

Another thing to consider is carnival time – each of the islands hosts its own yearly extravaganza that's an explosion of color and culture. St Croix extends the holidays with its Crucian Christmas Festival, the revelry unleashes in spring for St Thomas Carnival, while summertime boasts the St. John Celebration. If you want to join the party, it's essential to book well in advance and expect crowds and higher prices.

How much time should I spend in the US Virgin Islands? 

Many travelers pick one island to explore for a week, but local sojourns allow you to enjoy all of the Virgin Islands if you like. A week on St Thomas and St John means you can experience both of those islands using ferry connections.

Seven days on St Croix allows for a pretty immersive week with time for unplugging and exploring. Ten days would allow you to spend a week in your primary destination and hop on a seaplane or ferry and do a few days on another to mix up your experience.

Is it easy to get in and around the US Virgin Islands?

Most flights come from the mainland United States into St Thomas and St Croix. There are frequent direct flights from many major cities like Atlanta, New York, Chicago, Houston, Boston, Miami and Fort Lauderdale. This makes for easy flight connections for international travelers as well. You can also fly into San Juan, Puerto Rico and take a short commuter flight over to the USVI.

There are plenty of taxis on the islands, and for cruise passengers, this is the best way to get around for the day. Plus, your driver often plays tour guide. Most of the taxis on St Thomas and St John are unmetered safari-style open-air trucks or passenger vans that get packed with people.

Most notably, taxis charge a per-person fee to each destination. So, a family of four going out to dinner or the beach may spend US$36-48 each way. On St Croix, you’ll find some smaller taxis and more affordable rates, and most hotels and rentals have a list of reliable taxi drivers. Most cab drivers only accept cash.

VITRAN is the local public transit system in the USVI. Routes travel through main commercial areas but don't cover the entire islands. They rarely stick to a schedule but this is the cheapest option.

For visitors spending several days on an island, the best way to get around is to rent a car – it’s easier to customize your plans and control your time – and note that in the USVI, you drive on the left side of the road. On St Thomas and St John, the roads are winding and you will seldom go over 30mph. St Croix is a little bigger and has some longer stretches of road. Once you get the hang of it, it just adds to the adventure. 

Top things to do in the US Virgin Islands  

It's duty-free Downtown and all around

St Thomas is widely known as one of the best shopping destinations in the Caribbean. If you are looking for diamonds, luxury watches or other jewelry, prices are below stateside costs with no sales tax.

That is true of other purchases as well, making it worth your while to spend time perusing the shops and merchants in downtown Charlotte Amalie, Havensight Mall, Red Hook, Crown Bay Center or Yacht Haven Grande. The duty-free allowance is $1600 per person including children. 

Stretch out on the world-famous beach at Magens Bay

While each island is blessed with beautiful beaches, the stretch of sand at Magens Bay is the most popular and famous – it's truly stunning and the water is usually calm. There are lots of things to do besides swimming and sunbathing like hiking the nature trail, kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkeling.

Magens Bay offers perhaps the best amenities of any beach on St Thomas with watersports, a beach bar and food concessions. 

Taste the Tropics

From local kallaloo to authentic Italian dishes, fresh local fish and fungi to burgers and wings, the variety of dining options in the USVI reflects the diverse culture. On St Thomas, most of the restaurants can be found in Red Hook, Frenchtown, Havensight or Downtown, but local resorts also offer top eateries.

St John has numerous restaurants within walking distance of the ferry terminal in Cruz Bay but Coral Bay boasts some delicious options that are worth the drive. St Croix has a robust dining scene in Christiansted and Frederiksted and points in between.

Embrace the natural beauty

The sublime views and landscapes are what draw so many visitors to the USVI and each island has a wealth of incredible hikes to choose from. The most popular option on St Thomas is Magens Bay Park (if you can tear yourself away from the beach), St Croix has Buck Island nearby and the Jack and Isaac Bay Preserve Trail, while St John has the Virgin Islands National Park with treks along the coastline and through hidden coves. 

If you want professional guidance, Virgin Islands Ecotours is a great option. Watch out for wildlife as you paddle through St Thomas’ Mangrove Lagoon or explore a rare geological blowhole and snorkel in a shallow, coral-fringed mangrove nursery along the St John coast. VI Ecotours also rents watersports equipment by the day or by the week with delivery to your rental.

Dive beneath the waves at Coral World

Coral World is one of the most enduring and popular experiences on St Thomas and with good reason. Learn everything about Caribbean marine life and you can even observe the coral reef without getting wet in the Undersea Observatory.

If you'd like to get a little closer, take the plunge and do the Sea Trek – a guided helmet dive where you walk on an undersea trail and breathe through the helmet.

Wave at the stingrays and rainbow lorikeets and watch the lovable South American sea lions and bottlenose dolphins playing in the water. 

Take it all in on Drake’s Seat

One of St Thomas’ best viewpoints, Drake’s Seat affords a panoramic picture of Magens Bay and the US and British Virgin Islands strung out to the east.

This is a popular stop on around-the-island tours and an easy stop on the way to Magens Bay, so it can get crowded. If you visit in the late afternoon, the light is especially entrancing. Legend has it that British privateer Sir Francis Drake stood at that spot to keep watch for enemy ships. 

Learn about the islands' turbulent history

The trio of islands are all captivating destinations for history buffs. The flags of colonial powers Spain, England, France and Denmark have all flown here at some point and historians have found Indigenous carvings and remains that suggest the islands have been populated from as early as 1000BCE.

On St Croix, Christiansted – once the capital of the Danish West Indies – features 18th-century red-roofed buildings and quaint stone streets. Its twin city to the west, Frederiksted, has a fort that once protected the island from pirates and rival nations.

At the island’s tip stands Point Udall and its sundial monument, marking the easternmost point in US territory.

The USVI capital, Charlotte Amalie, is rich in historical features and the St Thomas Historical Trust is an expert source and offers walking tours.

The Annaberg Sugar Mill Ruins on St John are a stark reminder of the transatlantic trade of enslaved people that financed the colonial powers ruling the islands – there's a self-guided walking tour that brings you through the estate and frequent cultural demonstrations.

And there's no shortage of pirate lore, true and embellished, that adds a colorful tone to the island's history.

How much money do I need to for the US Virgin Islands?

The US Virgin Islands is one of the best value-for-money destinations in the Caribbean. You can do it on a small budget, opt for an all-inclusive hotel or splurge on luxury accommodations at a high-end resort or private villa.

The same with dining. That said, pretty much everything you might want to consume comes in by boat or plane, so prices are higher than mainland USA.

The currency here is the US Dollar and major credit cards are accepted in most establishments. Ask before you make a purchase or order food. ATM machines are located in banks and at other commercial locations and near the cruise ship docks. No sales tax also means more dollars in your wallet.

• Airfare: $300-1000

• Hotel rooms: $200-800 in peak season. Off-season, from $179-580. 

• Private rental (including Airbnb): Condos from $150 per night to luxury cliffside villas for thousands per night.

• Coffee: $4

• Sandwich: $13

• Dinner for two: $75-$200

• Beer/pint at the bar: $4

• Famous Painkiller cocktail: $12

Frequently asked questions

What language is spoken on the USVI?

The official language of the Virgin Islands is English though there are many West Indian dialects that you may hear. Most of them are predominantly English-based. Preface all questions and requests with a greeting first – Good Morning, Good Day or Good Night – and you'll get prompt service and welcoming smiles.

Does US Mail cover the USVI?

The US Virgin Islands use the same postal system and mail rates as mainland USA. Visitors from the US can easily mail locally purchased gifts back home.

What's the dress code?

The USVI is more than just a beach destination and bathing suits worn elsewhere, especially in town, tend to offend local residents. Wear proper attire (no bare midriffs or chests) in town and public areas when you leave the beach.

Can I use my US phone there?

The US Virgin Islands area code is 340. Most major US wireless phone companies provide domestic cell service on the islands. Be aware that if you pop over to the British Virgin Islands for an excursion, you may incur roaming charges depending on your carrier.

What kind of wildlife is found on the islands?

There are no dangerous snakes in the Virgin Islands, but you might want to pay attention to the invertebrates. Painful non-poisonous stings can be delivered by wasps, scorpions and centipedes. Green iguanas are often found near water and are agile climbers. You may also see mongoose and wild donkeys on St John.

Do US citizens need to go through border control?

Security measures in the US Virgin Islands are unique. All passengers and crew traveling from the USVI to the continental US and Puerto Rico must be cleared by officers of US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) to determine admissibility to the United States. Each individual must complete the CBP Declaration Form 6059B. 

You'll need your boarding pass and a valid federal or state-issued government ID, such as a valid driver’s license or passport with your name as it appears on your boarding pass. You will have to show these items twice – once to CBP and the second time to TSA security personnel.