A first-time guide to San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende seems lifted right out of a storybook, complete with cobblestone streets, impressive Spanish colonial architecture and even a pink-stone church. Artists and expats have been seduced by its charms since the 1960s, including literary icons like Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady.

These days, San Miguel de Allende is often named one of the best towns in the world to visit, thanks to its unique blend of robust Mexican flavor and a dash of international character. You’ll find it in traditional elements like the vibrant markets, the paper-mâché mojiganga puppets at festivals and colorful papel picado draped across the streets coexisting with modern touches like international art galleries, upscale fusion restaurants and boutique hotels run by expats – a true cosmopolitan brew. 

With English widely spoken here, San Miguel de Allende is the ideal base for first-time travelers to Mexico who want to explore the country’s interior, from historic towns to picturesque wineries.

When should I go to San Miguel de Allende?

The best time to visit San Miguel de Allende is from November to April, when temperatures are in the 70s and 80s ℉ (21 to 26 ℃). Bear in mind that nighttime can get chilly around this time of year, so ensure you pack warm layers of clothing.

The summer months are warmer, but they’re also the wettest. June to September tend to see regular – but short-lived – showers. If you brave the rain, you’ll also be rewarded with a busy festival calendar, including the Guanajuato International Film Festival.

Semana Santa (Holy Week) can get busy, as do the Christmas holidays, and accommodation prices surge in consequence. The Day of the Dead is a good time to see mojigangas, larger-than-life traditional puppets that have become popular during wedding celebrations.

All in all, there is no bad time to visit San Miguel de Allende, with its spring-like weather holding up most of the year.

How much time should I spend in San Miguel de Allende?

San Miguel de Allende is small enough to explore on foot, but it’s also packed with art galleries and interesting shops that you’ll want to browse at leisure. Three days will give you enough time to get lost in its cobblestone streets, visit the Fábrica La Aurora art complex and go on a day trip to a nearby winery.

You won’t regret a single moment here, though, so stay longer if you have the chance. Many first-time visitors end up being long-term residents!

Is it easy to get in and around San Miguel de Allende?

San Miguel de Allende is a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Mexico City. If you’re flying from the US or Canada, the two closest airports are in Querétaro (an hour and 15 minutes away) and León (an hour and a half away). You can arrange a transfer through your hotel or take a taxi from the airport.

Once in San Miguel de Allende, you can get to most places on foot. To visit the botanical garden or Fábrica La Aurora, you can take an Uber or taxi. Keep in mind that you’ll need cash to pay for taxis in most parts of Mexico.

Top things to do in San Miguel de Allende

These are the activities you shouldn’t miss if you’re staying in San Miguel de Allende for a few nights.

Admire the pink stone parish

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the official name of the intricately carved pink-stone church considered the town’s crown jewel. The architect is said to have taken inspiration from European cathedrals, including the Cologne Cathedral in Germany.

No matter what time of day you gaze at it, you’ll be impressed by its colors, even at night when it’s lit up and can be spotted from one of the town’s many rooftops.

Tour the art galleries

By far, one of the best things to do in San Miguel de Allende is to get lost in its web of cobblestone alleys, leaving the day’s spontaneous discoveries up to fate. With over 100 art galleries in town, you’re bound to stumble upon dozens selling objects that will strike your fancy – a fun activity even if you’re not looking to buy anything.

Watch the sunset from a rooftop

San Miguel de Allende is enamored with rooftop restaurants, and every fancy hotel and bar in town seems to have one overlooking the picturesque streets below. 

Luna Rooftop, the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende’s restaurant, was one of the first in town and remains a San Miguel favorite. Its views of the parish are unparalleled and its cozy vibe at night is one to experience at least once – paired with a cheese platter paired and a glass of red wine – from the area.

Eat a churro at Jardín Allende

Churros San Agustin is the most popular cafe in town for churros, which are served plain to dunk in thick drinking chocolate or filled and drizzled with caramel, chocolate or condensed milk.

To avoid the long waiting lines, or simply to enjoy a sunny day out, get your churros to go and eat them on a bench at Jardín Allende – San Miguel’s main square – as you watch the world, and the people, go by.

Take a stroll through Jardín Botánico El Charco del Ingenio

While a lot of San Miguel de Allende’s beauty is of a manmade nature, there’s plenty to appeal to nature lovers too. At Jardín Botánico El Charco del Ingenio, you’ll see more varieties of cacti than you ever knew existed, and there are guided tours to learn more about botany. 

Being a natural reserve, you can spot wildlife while being out on a hike, and getting there offers an opportunity to stretch your legs – it’s a 40-minute walk from Jardín Allende.

Visit the nearby wineries

Mexican wine is slowly but surely carving its place in the world. Winemaking in Mexico began in the 16th century with the arrival of the Spanish, but modern Mexican wine came on the scene a lot more recently – around the 1970s.

While the Valle de Guadalupe region in the north of the country is better known for winemaking, there is a thriving wine region in Querétaro, steps away from San Miguel de Allende. Book a tour or a wine tasting at La Santísima Trinidad and spend some time touring the well-manicured grounds filled with lavender fields. Cuna de Tierra is another good choice, and it’s a mere 40-minute drive from San Miguel de Allende.

My favorite thing to do in San Miguel de Allende

For me, no trip to San Miguel de Allende is complete without spending some time at Fábrica La Aurora, a large complex housing scores of contemporary art galleries, design studios and boutiques. 

The artworks at this remodeled raw cotton factory are largely created by expats, meaning nothing here is cheap. Still, I love browsing through the hundreds of objets d’art, which include paintings, home decor and jewelry.

How much money do I need for San Miguel de Allende?

San Miguel de Allende caters to foreign visitors and, as such, most Mexicans consider San Miguel de Allende an expensive destination. Artwork in galleries is pricey, international rooftop dining comes at a premium, and boutique hotels aren’t budget-friendly either. 

Compared to other cities in North America, San Miguel de Allende might not be considered expensive, but it’s definitely not a low-cost Mexican destination. Overall, the prices in San Miguel de Allende are similar to those in Cancun.

• Hostel room: M$1700-2050 (US$84-100) 

• Basic room for two: M$1700-3000 (US$82-150) 

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): M$1800-3000 (US$84-150) 

• Average taxi ride within the town: M$80 (US$4)

• Coffee: M$40-90 (US$2-4.50)

• Sandwich: M$120 (US$6)

• Enchiladas or chilaquiles: M$130-155 (US$6.50-7.50) 

• Dinner for two at a rooftop restaurant: M$1000-1600 (US $50-80)

• Beer/pint at the bar: M$46 (US$2.30)

Is San Miguel de Allende safe for travelers?

San Miguel de Allende is generally considered safe for tourists. Still, it’s important to exercise usual precautions like avoiding walking alone at night in unlit areas. Be mindful of your belongings in crowded places, as pickpocketing is not uncommon, particularly during festivals.  

Are there earthquakes in San Miguel de Allende?

Mexico is found in a seismic zone, and earthquakes can occur, but the risk of an earthquake in San Miguel de Allende is low compared to other parts of the country. Nonetheless, it’s useful for travelers to familiarize themselves with safety procedures in case of an earthquake when traveling to Mexico.