A first-time guide to Beaujolais

It’s impossible not to relax in Beaujolais. Calm roads criss-cross through green vineyards, golden-stone villages and forest trails. Throw in a wine-tasting or two and you’ll be breathing more deeply and untensing your shoulders before you know it. 

Beaujolais is the perfect destination for independent travelers looking for a quintessentially French experience without hassle. You can cover a lot of ground and experiences in two days without feeling rushed and leaving plenty of time for spontaneity. Just 40 minutes from Lyon but a world away from urban life, this compact region packs a punch that’s more than their world famous wine.

When should I go to Beaujolais?

With high temperatures in August topping out at 26℃ (78℉), the region can make for a pleasant escape from city heat in the summer, though if you visit at the weekends, you will be joined by plenty of Lyonnaise locals looking for fresh country air.

Autumn makes for an exciting time to coincide with the wine harvest and stunning autumnal covers creeping over the region’s greenery. Celebrations such as Fete du Paradis and the Vendanges Musicales festival carry on the celebratory feeling. 

How much time should I spend in Beaujolais ? 

Beaujolais is relatively compact and with decent roads, even in the most rural parts. With a car, you can see a good deal of the region in two days, with plenty of time to explore small villages and take detours to interesting winemakers whose signs you will undoubtedly pass along the way. 

A longer trip will be rewarded with uncovering the often overlooked delights of Beaujolais Vert, including excellent hiking trails, a UNESCO Global Geopark and plenty of outdoor activities to try your hand at.

Is it easy to get in and around Beaujolais?

For international travelers, Lyon is the easiest jumping off point to explore the region. You can get to Beaujolais from Lyon center by train in 40 minutes or drive from Lyon airport in 45 minutes, making it a favorite weekend destination for the Lyonnaise. Trains from other major destinations like Paris and Geneva go through Lyon first.

Getting to the region is easy by public transport but after that you’re on your own. You can hire a car at Lyon airport, Villefranche-sur-Saone station or Macon station. Bike tours are becoming more common with electric bikes being the standard to tackle those rolling hills. 

Guided tours like those Semita Tours offer, can bring you around vineyards and villages and even on wine tasting without a car, giving you access to small, rural tracks largely unused except by cyclists, walkers and the odd farmer. 

Top things to do in Beaujolais

Unique wine-tasting experiences

With more than 2,000 wine makers across 12 appellations, you’ll be spoiled for choice for wine tastings. History lovers will love the emblematic Château de la Chaize, home to Beaujolais’ longest wine cellar and stunning gardens planted by Versailles’ gardener. Château de Corcelles combines wine tasting with a tour of the castle that has evolved from a Middle Ages stronghold to a bucolic wedding venue and event space.

For something a little different, consider a wine tasting followed by a picnic in the vineyards at Domaine de Montmelas. There you can polish off your favorite bottle from the wine tasting while lunching on locally made salads, terrine and praline tart.

For a higher view, an aperitif experience is available at the top of the 18th century Tower of Oingt where you can lunch while scoping out the panoramas of the region’s rolling hills from every direction. Wine tasting is, of course, included.

Touring villages

Charming villages are France’s lifeblood and Beaujolais is no exception to the rule. Oingt is the star of the show, and is officially named as one of France’s most beautiful villages. It’s also home to fourteen artists who have made the hillside town their home and workplace. Almost all the artisans have workshops you can visit to see their process at work, or just browse the end results. Everything from authentic Japanese kintsugi to handmade jewelry is created here. 

Ternand is a charming medieval town and is, in its entirety, classified as a historic monument. It’s home to the remains of a 12th century castle overlooking the neighboring, ubiquitous vineyards. Fleurie is another charming stop for nature lovers, with accessible hiking and cycle trails nearby and unforgettable panoramas that might reveal Mont Blanc on a clear day. 

Explore the forests of Vert Beaujolais 

In the wine-soaked delights of Beaujolais, the wholesome outdoor activities of Vert are often overlooked. This large area makes up the entire western side of the region and is home to walking trails like the family-friendly Forêt des Expériences (the forest of experiences). 

For more of a challenge, consider Mont Saint Rigaud, nicknamed the Roof of the Rhône due to it being the highest point in the region. There are marked trails on this challenging hike and a cool spring to refill your water bottle along the way. You can also drive most of the way to the top where there is an observation tower if you prefer.

To cool off, the artificial Lac des Sapins boasts a beach, climbing park and activities like archery and mountain biking.

My favorite thing to do in Beaujolais 

In the village of Oingt, I took a calligraphy workshop with Yves Dimier. At once inspirational and mindful, in the couple of hours we spent together, Yves instructed me to ground myself by placing my feet firmly on the floor, straightening my spine, and breathing deeply and evenly. But the real art is finding the tightrope between intention and flow. 

“If you’re in control you’re drawing or writing, it’s not calligraphy”, he explains patiently. “Fifty percent let go, fifty percent in control - then you are in calligraphy.”

There is no ultimate mastery here; he informs me that it’s possible to repeat a word for fifteen years without being fully satisfied. But I practice with a word of my choice - freedom - bringing a pleasing visual artistry to the letters, a delightful creative exercise for someone like me, who feels a comfort with words that I don’t in the visual arts. 

Similar courses are available in French and English, either for three hours or for a full day (book ahead). 

Where to eat and stay in Beaujolais 

Le Café Terroir Chez Saint-Cyr A new opening for 2024, it has a thriving companion restaurant in the gastronomic powerhouse of Lyon. Its speciality is rotisserie meats served for two, including roasted pistachio sausage.

La Table du Donjon A family favorite perched on the hillside of Oingt village, expect hearty French fare with a breathtaking sunset thrown in for free.

Beurre Noisette With a menu that changes weekly, this is a delightfully affordable, (three courses for €32) relaxed dining experience that is deservedly busy at weekends.

Le Clos Zélie A friendly family-run B&B set in the region’s trademark golden stone work, it has a pool on site and yes, they even make their own wine.

How much money do I need for Beaujolais?

Beaujolais is a great-value destination for wine lovers, particularly in comparison to their neighbor Bordeaux. 

Cards are generally accepted everywhere but cash is recommended for small purchases like coffee.

• Basic room for two: €60-90

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): €55-110

• Coffee: €4

• Dinner for two in mid tier restaurant: €100

• Glass of wine: €5-10

• Bottle of wine from region: €10-30

• Wine-tasting: €10-30

Annemarie visited Beaujolais at the invitation of Beaujolais Tourism. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies for positive coverage.