Copy My Trip: Tenerife on and off the beaten path

I’ve been hearing a lot of things about Tenerife this year. Earlier in 2024, I commissioned a new update for Pocket Tenerife, deservedly famous as a winter sun destination. Then, coincidentally, I had several friends who are all planning a break on the island in the upcoming months. They were thrilled when I was invited on a week-long exploration of the perennially popular Canarian island so I could return with plenty more recommendations for them!

These are some of the highlights from my visit, but you’ll find hundreds more in the brand new guidebook.

Favorite activity from the trip?

Teide National Park is the highlight of many an itinerary for good reason. Dominating the heart of the island, its lunar-like landscape is worth exploring whether by cable car, one of the 40 walking trails or just driving up for a spectacular sunset.

La Ruleta Vista Point is a popular spot to watch the sun go down and don’t get disheartened if it is a rare cloudy day along the coast; you’ll be up so high that there’s a good chance you’ll break cloud cover and get a chance to take in the wondrous sunset from all angles. Stargazing is also popular in the park so linger on for some astro tourism activities afterwards.

Did you bring home a souvenir? 

I delighted my mother with an intricate handwoven rosette table runner from La Roseta in Vilaflor. They have been making the delicate crafts for multiple generations. The pieces are incredibly good value for the love and attention gone into them and, if table runners are not quite your style, they can sew a piece onto a cushion, a tote bag or even make rosette jewelry.

Vilaflor is a charming town to stop over on your drive to Teide National Park from the southern resorts and La Roseta is a couple of doors down from Dulceria Hermano Pedro where you can pick up some traditional Canarian sweets. Nearby Hotel Villalba is also a good stop for an overnight or just a quiet dinner.

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

In the north of the island in Puerto de la Cruz we stayed in Hotel Botánico, a Thai-influenced five-star resort with tranquil gardens that complement Jardín Botánico just across the road. 

As well as housing three excellent restaurants (we ate at La Parrilla which showcases traditional Spanish flavors), its spa is also worth booking into if your budget doesn’t stretch to staying in the hotel. A massage by the pool is well worth the trip.

In the south, amid a hundred other resorts clamoring for attention, we stayed at Tivoli La Caleta. As might be expected in the tourist-heavy area of the island, this felt a little bit more like a “sun holiday” resort but with a chilled vibe. For sun worshippers, there are three swimming pools to choose from and its own stretch of beach to enjoy. Its burnt orange facade gives it a traditional feel and it’s possible to gaze at the clouds across Teide from the sunny pool lounger. 

What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?

The cliffside walk around Taborno village in the Anaga Rural Park was deserted by other travelers when we went in mid-September. We all felt like we were plopped into the most secret, local corner of the island as we edged past the back of houses where owners politely stopped watering their plants to let us pass. The side of the trail was filled with wild, trailing versions of the blooms I’d spotted at the botanical gardens a day before. The narrow goat trail meant concentration was key to a safe walk but it was impossible to complete without stopping to appreciate the dramatic visage of rain clouds gradually dispersing over volcanic valleys. 

Best thing you ate? 

My favorite thing about the restaurants on this trip was the dedication to showcasing local Canarian ingredients and flavors. Garachico’s El Rebojo comes recommended by the Michelin Guide and showcased sweet potato and local goat’s cheese as well as fresh tuna. Seafood featured heavily, both in El Guaydil’s fat and juicy codfish and Besame Mucho’s menu – including fabulous seafood croquetas – which are best enjoyed with a side serving of a sunset view. Don’t leave without trying gofio, a toasted flour that can be added to almost anything, and mojo sauces. Both can be tried at Muelle Viejo.

Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

We all need a relaxing sun holiday now and again but a little exploration goes a long way in Tenerife. The north side of the island may be further away from the airport (more than an hour’s drive as opposed to twenty minutes) and has cloudier skies, but the rewards are world-class restaurants and craft stores nestled in historic towns like Garachico or natural ocean pools along the coast, like Charco Los Chochos.

If time or inclination tempts you to stay in the south, moderate hikes like Barranco del Infierno are a couple of hours work and a short taxi ride from your resort, offering the perfect excuse to explore the town of Adeje and its interesting shops away from the main tourist drag. Plus, the island of La Gomera is only a short ferry ride away and makes a good day trip. 

Annemarie visited Tenerife at the invitation of Tenerife Tourism. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in return for positive coverage.