Turn left when you hit Dhërmi beach and follow the road almost to its end, pleasantly far away from the crowds and music. Here, overlooking the brilliant white rocky beach, little white cabins with sea views sit among the trees, and the welcome is very warm. There's even a whitewashed Hoxha-era bunker on the premises!
Prices go up in July and August, but out of season rooms can be had for €30.