Kujtimi

This laid-back outdoor restaurant, run by the Dumi family, is an excellent choice. Try the delicious trofte (fried trout; 400 lekë), the midhje (fried mussels; 350 lekë) and qifqi (rice balls fried in herbs and egg, a local speciality). The terrace is the perfect place to absorb the charms of the Old Town with a (rough!) glass of local wine.